Keeping a Garden Journal

The invaluable garden journal

By Amy McDowell

My garden adventures—all of them—are documented.  Even the time I accidentally splattered myself with the slimy guts of two dozen plump four-inch tomato hornworms. Eew. Yes, it was gross.  Gardening is messy, but I learn things all the time.

I record everything in my garden journal. I now have about fifteen years’ worth of helpful and humorous lessons documented. I wrote about waiting three years for the first bloom on my fragrant bourbon rose, finding a baby deer in the woods behind my home, and the thrill of seeing a dog-tooth violet bloom for the first time. There are crazy and delightful stories like the time masses of praying mantis hatched in my car when I left two egg casings on the warm dashboard. I have a record of the time a ground squirrel nearly drowned in the whisky barrel and the time a raccoon was trapped under the heavy bowl of the large antique bird bath after he accidentally tipped it over on himself. I documented every deer sighting, hawk sighting, and screech owl.

My journals include recipes for homemade hummingbird nectar, deer repellent, insect spray, and even rooting hormone. I sketch and chronicle ideas I have tried, such as the homemade scent dispensers for fox urine to repel rabbits, and I jot down ideas that I have seen in other gardens, such as using cardboard boxes for rose cones.

The practical side of a garden journal is to record the botanical and common names of new plants I put in. I sketch where I planted them, and sometimes even document where I bought them and how much I paid. Sometimes they grow beautifully, and other times they die off. It is helpful to read through old garden journals and remember the successes and failures.

My journals are an invaluable archive of my joys and blunders in the garden. My lesson about hornworms is that when you go about ferociously plucking them from a datura and stomping them to goo with your right foot, the guts will spurt far and wide—all over your left leg. Later you will look down and wonder, “What is this green crusty stuff all over my pants? – Oh, sick!”

Hydrangeas, pink and blue

Our blushing Hydrangeas

By Amy McDowell

A Hydrangea’s color is as changeable as a chameleon. You may buy a Hydrangea with sky-blue blooms at the garden center that turns to pink in your garden. It’s a frustrating trait for gardeners intent on designing with a particular color. The Hydrangeas, though, are simply responding to their environment. A low soil pH (acidic) will turn Hydrangeas blue and a high soil pH (alkaline) will turn them pink.

Virtually all of the soils in central Iowa are alkaline. Areas where fallen oak leaves or evergreen needles collect and decay may be more neutral, but it’s unlikely that you’ll find any acidic soils with a pH lower than six in this area. And that means no blue Hydrangeas for our gardens. Plant a blue and it will convert to pink. (The whites stay white regardless of pH.)

Even if you go crazy mulching with pine needles or pouring on Miracid or Aluminum Sulfate, the plant’s response will be both mild and temporary. Not only are our soils alkaline, but our tap water is, too. A blue Hydrangea grown in a controlled environment like a pot is likely to turn pink eventually just because of the water.

So pink or white it is. At least we’ve got choices of bush, tree or climbing Hydrangeas. We can decorate our gardens with mopheads like Annabelle, lacecaps like Radiata, repeat bloomers like Endless Summer and White Moth and ornamental trees like Pee Gee and Pink Diamond. We’ve also got the white lacecap climbing Hydrangea and the deep burgundy fall color of the oakleaf Hydrangea.

Variations in bloom and foliage are ever expanding. Although its not hardy here, the new “Lady in Red” Hydrangea (zones 6-9) is red stemmed and red veined. It’s just a matter of time before hybridizers create something like that for our colder winters.

Don’t be blue when your Hydrangea blushes pink. We all must adapt to our environment.

Crabapples Add Curb Appeal

Crabapples add curb appeal to salt-box homes

By Amy McDowell

Two-story homes are immensely popular around the Des Moines metro area for one simple reason; homebuyers can get a bigger home for less money. They are much cheaper per square foot than ranch-style homes. After moving in, new homeowners struggle to landscape those boxy facades, and it’s common to see a ring of short shrubs (nearly always Spirea) around the home’s foundation. Unfortunately, that kind of landscape is out of scale with the size of the home and ends up looking chintzy. Some designers call that look “garnish around the turkey”.

A single tree in the front yard will aesthetically break up the tremendous bulk of the home and make it appear grounded. The tree’s canopy shouldn’t conceal the home in a dark leafy mass; it should be planted off center so it will not directly block the front door or any windows from the street.

Although a towering oak with rugged branches arching to shelter the roofline is the ideal tree for many reasons, oaks are slow growing and planted for future generations to enjoy. Go ahead and plant one, but you’ll also want to plant something that will grow faster. Plant an ornamental tree that will give your home curb appeal and help it blend with the landscape within a handful of years.

Crabapple trees are the best ornamental trees in Iowa. They are amazingly well adapted to our heavy clay soils and bitter cold winters. Tour the Arie den Boer Crabapple Arboretum at Water Works Park and you’ll see specimens that have survived many a flood. Trees that can survive floods are tough-tough-tough when it comes to living in clay soil. Crabapples bloom faithfully each spring in pink, white or red.

For 15 years, “Spring Snow” Crabapple was all the rage because it is fruitless. But being fruit-free isn’t all that important for the crabapple hybrids of today—they nearly all have tiny fruits that are retained long into the winter months. Mushy golf-ball-sized crabapples rotting in the grass are a thing of the past, thank goodness. New crabapple varieties are bred for rust resistance, too, so there no problems with ratty-looking foliage and late-summer leaf drop.

If your two-story home sticks awkwardly out of the landscape, plant a crabapple. They are hardy as heck, fast growing and beautiful bloomers.

Hummingbird Season

Create a hummingbird haven

By Amy McDowell

Faeries must’ve come into garden lore in part, at least, because of tiny hummingbirds and their graceful acrobatic flight. Tinkerbell’s nimble flight patterns and ability to hover must have originated with hummingbirds. Perhaps there’s even some genetic link between hummingbirds and faeries.

Attract these charming flying jewels to your garden and you will forever be enchanted.

Hummingbird Nectar Recipe

Mixing up a batch of fresh nectar is quick and simple. Stir one cup of sugar into four cups warm water. Boiling is not necessary, honestly.

Flying-saucer-shaped feeders are the best because they are the easiest to clean. The top and bottom discs snap together, and there isn’t a narrow bottleneck to scrub. Once every three to seven days, dump out the old nectar, wash the feeder with warm soapy water, and refill it with fresh nectar. The whole process takes no more than five minutes, and you’ll be rewarded for your effort with frequent visits from the tiny beauties.

Hang several feeders around your home. Male hummingbirds are territorial and will chase others away from a feeder. Although they feed throughout the day, I notice more activity in the evenings.

A blooming garden adds a buffet of natural flower nectar to the hummingbird diet. Here are lists of annuals, perennials and woody shrubs and vines that hummingbirds would love to find in your garden.

Annual hummingbird nectar plants

Four o’clock (Mirabilis), Dahlia, Gladioli, Fuschia, Impatiens, Nasturtium, Petunia, snapdragon, spider flower (Cleome), sweet William (Dianthus), Nicotiana, and Zinnias. Annual vines include morning glory (Ipomoea) and scarlet runner bean (Phaseolus coccineus).

Perennial hummingbird nectar plants

   

Monarda, bleeding heart (Dicentra), butterfly weed (Asclepias), cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis), ajuga, columbine (Aquilegia), coral bells (Heuchera), Delphinium, foxglove, Penstemon, garden phlox, red-hot poker (Kniphofia), salvia and hosta.

Shrubs and vines that attract hummingbirds

Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans), honeysuckle (Lonicera), azaleas, beauty bush (Kolkwitzia amabilis), butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii), coralberry (Symphoricarpos orbiculatus), lilac (Syringa), quince (Chaenomeles japonica), rose of sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) and Weigela.