Aaahhh, those bloomin' indoor vines!

Blooming indoor vines

By Amy McDowell

The Linnaean House at the Missouri Botanic Garden is the most enthralling building I have ever set foot in. It is a brick-sided greenhouse built in 1916, proudly touted as the oldest continuously operating greenhouse this side of the Mississippi River. A brick path snakes through the center of the earth floor and plants on both sides of the path sink their roots directly into the ground. Vines clamor up the brick walls inside and outside the building. When the large wood-frame windows are left open in the summer, the scents of camellias and jasmine wisp in and out.

The earthen floor anchors plants and gives my soul an indoor soil connection far beyond potting soil in containers. Planting beds in the dome at the Des Moines Botanical Center are similar, but the scale of the Linnaean House creates an intimate, homey atmosphere. If only I could live in such a building.

I am left to recreate the divine environment on a pot-bound scale, but a handful of blooming vines cooperate with the conditions in my home. The following tender vines are some of the simplest. They require very bright light, like that in a southern- or eastern-facing window, and are content with average home temperatures and humidity. Most will bloom all winter with regular water, little fertilizer and an occasional trim. Spray to keep the bugs at bay. Once a month, use insecticidal soap or mix your own with a drop of dish soap and a teaspoon of rubbing alcohol in a 16-ounce spray bottle filled with water.

Black-Eyed Susan Vine (Thunbergia alata) originally bloomed golden with a dark eye. I grew it in that loud clashy color, but now they are available in tamer citrus colors, pink blush and pure white. The new colors look great beside the cool colors of Browalia (B. speciosa major) and trailing Lobelia (L. erinus). Browalia blooms with 1-inch blue stars all winter, and the Lobelia has dainty dark purple flowers.

Other vines that bloom indoors include smelly Lantana (L. montevidensis), ivy geranium (Pelargonium peltatum), red-and-white glory bower (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), finicky Fuschia (F. magellanica gracilis), delightfully fragrant snail vine (Phaseolus caracalla) and fan flower (Scaevola aemula).

Trees and Construction

Building your dream home on that wooded lot

By Amy McDowell

Wooded residential lots cost thousands more than treeless lots, but if those trees aren’t protected during construction, they can be severely damaged. Often the damage isn’t visible and the slow physiology of trees means they may live for four to seven years after construction crews have left the site, slowly spiraling into decline and finally death.

Soil compaction from heavy equipment and building materials is the most common damage. Ninety percent of a tree’s roots are within the top twelve inches of soil. Soil compaction may crush or tear the fine roots, but the loss of air space within the soil profile can be long lasting and even more devastating. Soil organisms can take decades to loosen compacted soils and return them to a healthy environment for tree roots.

The most important step to protecting the trees on your building lot is to ring them with a barrier that is not easily moved by construction crews. Metal stakes and bright orange snow fence works well. Place the barrier at least one foot from the base of the trunk for every inch of trunk diameter. For example, a tree with a two-foot diameter trunk must have a barrier at least 24 feet from the trunk.

Even after construction is complete, continue to guard the root zone. Don’t let a finish grader add or remove soil within the barrier zone. If you seed or sod the new lawn, use care not to drown the tree by irrigating too frequently. After the turf is established, water no more than once or twice a week.

A three-inch-deep mulch ring around the tree will protect the trunk from mower and string trimmer damage, and the wider the ring the better it is for the tree’s roots. Some arborists say a mulch ring that runs clear to the drip line of the branches would be a tree’s dream-come-true, although they realize that much mulch is unrealistic for most homeowners.

For large construction sites with complicated traffic patterns around trees, you might want to consult with an ISA certified arborist on how best to protect the trees. Information is available at www.isa-arbor.com or 800-ISA-TREE.

What Birds Want

Feeding our Feathered Friends

By Amy McDowell

When we moved my husband’s bedridden grandpa into a nursing home, we hung a bird feeder outside his window. Then each time family members visited him, they filled his feeder. His care center was in Polk City, and flocks of goldfinches visited the feeder every day.

He was unable to talk after suffering a stroke, but he would often point out the window at the feeder and smile tenderly. From his bed, he could see the TV and the bird feeder, and although watching TV passed the time, watching the birds obviously gave him great joy.

Grandpa is not the only one who enjoys feeding birds; more than 60 million people in the U.S. spend nearly a billion dollars a year on bird seed, and that figure does not include feeders or accessories like shepherd hooks and squirrel baffles.

What Birds Want

The most popular seed among birds is black oil sunflower seed, according to a 1980 report compiled by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. They watched 13 different kinds of birds choose seeds from specially-designed feeders and found that all of them, including goldfinches, cardinals, chickadees, mourning doves, purple finches, and tufted titmice, chose black oil sunflower seed above all other seeds. The black oil sunflower seeds beat out striped sunflower seeds, red and white millet, sunflower hearts, cracked corn, peanut hearts, safflower seed, and milo.

Suet is popular among insect-eating birds like woodpeckers, robins, and wrens. Store-bought suet cakes are inexpensive and simple to slip into cage-style feeders. Many people make their own suet cakes, and recipes abound online. Most recipes include fresh ground suet, peanut butter, cornmeal, and a mixture of nuts, raisins, and seeds.

The birds will appreciate fresh water. During the winter you can use a heated bird bath or insert a heater into the bowl of your bird bath to keep the water thawed. A cheaper idea is to dump the ice every day and fill the bird bath with warm water. Of course, this won’t work with a heavy concrete birdbath, and it won’t stay thawed for long, but the birds will appreciate your efforts.

The leanest time of year for birds is spring, because their natural food sources from the previous season are gone and plants are not setting seed or producing berries in the current season yet. The months of March through June are more crucial than the winter months.

Your Secret Garden

Planting for Privacy

By Amy McDowell

The garden is a place to get away from the world—to escape from everyone and everything. Shed that cloak of stress and step into nature’s embrace. Your deck or patio can be an intimate, private retreat. It doesn’t matter if your neighbors are delightful—you can engage them in conversation if you choose—but you must create a space in your garden that is isolated from the outside world.

Privacy fences are tremendously popular because they create a visual barrier that takes little space and little care. There are many wonderful plants you may use to create a softer barrier. Here are a few shrubs to help create privacy in your garden. They are just about as easy to install and maintain as a fence.

Emerald arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Emerald’) is a narrow, upright evergreen commonly used for screening. It creates an attractive deep green backdrop for other plantings—flowering perennials look stunning in front of arborvitae. Emerald arborvitae grows slowly, reaching twelve feet tall and four feet wide at maturity. Pruning is not necessary to keep them looking sharp. Some arborvitaes suffer winter burn that creates brown patches, but emerald arborvitae is hardy and durable.

Lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) form a terrific hedge as long as you have the space for them. The deliciously fragrant blooms will fill your garden in May. You can find lilacs that bloom in every shade of purple, pink, and lavender, and even white or pale yellow. The common lilac grows fifteen feet tall and about eight feet wide. The best way to prune a lilac is to cut out no more than one third of the oldest, woodiest branches close to the ground. This will encourage new suckers to sprout at the base, keeping the overall size reduced and the blooms within range of your nose, rather than above your head.

Viburnums come in many shapes and sizes. Arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum) is named for its arrow-straight upright branches, and Koreanspice viburnum (V. carlesii) is named for its fragrant blooms. Arrowwood viburnum will grow to eight feet tall and six feet wide, and Koreanspice viburnum will mature to about five feet high and wide. Viburnums have rich dark green foliage and are extremely hardy here in central Iowa. In addition to these two, there are many other excellent varieties to choose from; each with its own wonderful characteristics.

Your list of plant choices is blessedly long and diverse. If your deck is elevated, your site may call for a small tree or a cluster of them. Imagine your deck or patio embraced in privacy. Picture a lush green barrier in your mind. Your new plantings may not give you the instant privacy of a fence, but it won’t take long. Take a deep breath. Soon you will have that delightful, secluded pocket of heaven in your garden.