Arbor Day

Plant a tree for Arbor Day

By Amy McDowell

Each spring, Arbor Day slips by quietly without a lot of fanfare—getting none of the publicity that a holiday like Groundhog Day receives. Part of the problem is that Arbor Day varies by region; it’s scheduled to coordinate with different planting seasons in each area. In Iowa, Arbor Day is officially the last Friday in April. That’s April 27 this year. However, to further complicate things, many Iowa communities designate their own Arbor Day to coordinate with local tree planting activities. If we had a set Arbor Day printed on our calendars each year, it would be much easier to keep track and make plans to buy a tree.

If you are planning to plant a tree this year, here are three terrific trees to consider for your landscape.

American Hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana) is sometimes called “muscle wood” because the smooth blue-gray bark resembles rippling muscles. They’ve also garnered the nickname “ironwood” because the hard wood is extremely strong. Hornbeams have dark green leaves and terrific red, orange or yellow fall color. They are adaptable to the heavy clay soil here in central Iowa, and they’ll even tolerate wet sites. Hornbeams produce tiny nutlets that birds enjoy. They grow well in full sun or heavy shade, and they have an upright rounded canopy. Hornbeams are a small shade tree, topping out at about 25 feet high and wide when full grown.

Silver Linden (Tilia tomentosa) are stunning shade trees that are even more spectacular when the wind blows. The glossy dark green leaves are silvery underneath, and the trees twinkle in the breeze. The silver in their name is both for the silver undersides of the leaves and the smooth light gray bark, which makes them beautiful year round. Silver Lindens have good yellow fall color, and are tolerant of air and salt pollution. When mature, their broad canopy can reach 60-70 feet high and 30-40 feet wide.

Kentucky Coffeetree (Gymnocladus dioicus) are gorgeous large trees that sometimes suffer a stigma because of the 8-inch-long bean pods they produce. Kentucky Coffeetrees are immense and stately when mature at 60 feet high and 40 feet wide, and raking the bean pods is no more arduous than raking leaves. The foliage is dark bluish green during the summer and yellowish in the fall. Kentucky Coffeetrees have attractive rough bark and are free of disease or insect problems.

Most people agree it’s important to help one another; to touch other people’s lives in some positive way. Planting trees is a way to help everyone and to touch the earth in a positive way.

I Love Lilies

Love those lilies

By Amy McDowell

In my new garden, I inherited a big clump of crimson Asiatic lilies. My first reaction when I saw them bloom was revulsion. I’ve always had a passion for pastels—especially pink—and the bold red annoyed me. The lilies were one of the many apparent flaws in my new garden. Now, three years later, after once offering to dig them up and give them away, I find myself looking forward to their blooms this year. In fact, I’m thinking about planting more.

The pale pastels that created a sweet and delicate woodland wonderland in my old garden just don’t cut it in this sprawling acre-and-a-half, full sun garden. I need big, bold blooms that can be seen from a great distance, and those once-rejected lilies are spectacular for that purpose.

Asiatic lilies are the earliest bloomers, making their show in late May or early June. They range from two to five feet tall, and they come in red, orange, yellow, white and every shade of pink. Asiatic lilies multiply well, forming an attractive clump.

Oriental lilies pick up when the Asiatics leave off, blooming from June through August. They range from three to six feet tall, and they come in pink, white, yellow and bicolor. The well-known ‘Stargazer’ often used in floral arrangements is an Oriental lily.

Both Asiatic and Oriental lilies make great cut flowers, but you’ve got to leave at least half of the stem and foliage standing in the garden to feed the bulb for next year’s bloom. Asiatic lilies are not fragrant, but Oriental lilies often have a spicy scent.

I plan to add both Asiatic and Oriental lilies to my garden this year, in every vibrant red and yellow I can get my hands on. There are always trumpet, Turk’s cap and orienpets to try next year. Trumpet and Turk’s cap lilies range from four to eight feet tall, and may need stakes or shelter from the wind. Orienpets are the newer crosses between Oriental and trumpet lilies, bred for more durability and a broader range of colors.

Lilies need well-drained soil and are happiest in full sun or light shade. I’ll plant mine with a little bone meal mixed into the planting hole and a little blood meal sprinkled on the surface of the soil. A decade ago, I learned the hard way that lilies are a tasty treat for critters. The day after I planted a couple of Oriental lilies in my garden, I found some little bugger had dug them up and eaten them. They are not cheap, and I was so frustrated that I’ve never planted them since. Just as it has taken several years to recognize the glorious value of red lilies in my garden, it has also taken years to let go of that initial failure and try again.

The soil -- It's ALIVE!

Small plants + live soil = big rewards

By Amy McDowell

A trend has hit the perennial garden scene with a lot of force in recent years. The idea is to focus your money and energy on amending the soil and spend less money and energy on the plants.

After two decades of installing perennial gardens, author Tracy DiSabato-Aust has shown that perennials can double or triple in size during their first season—if the soil has been amended with organic matter. She convinces clients of her Ohio design and installation firm that investing in the soil is the top priority. To offset the expense of soil amendments and site preparation, she plants 4-inch (and sometimes even bare-root) perennials. Believe it or not, her tiny perennials outperform gallon-size perennials within a single season. In following years, the plants are naturally healthier and more robust because of the live soil. Photos documenting the amazing growth are included in her book, “The Well-Tended Perennial Garden”. (Timber Press, 1998)

Live soil isn’t some mushy black matter you can buy in a bag for 99 cents. Live soil has billions of bacteria, millions of fungi, plus protozoa, paramesei and nematodes—all in a single spoonful. Organic matter is the key to live soil, because it provides food for the bacteria, fungi and microbes.

Landscape Architect Terry Guen, who coordinated the design and construction of the 25-acre Millennium Park in downtown Chicago, said they purchased live soil for the park from a site in Indiana. With guidelines for soil handling and storage, they kept it healthy and alive throughout construction. They were careful not to smother or compact it by piling it too deep or driving over it with heavy equipment. As the world’s largest millennium project, planners insisted on large plants for the site, but the care they took on buying and maintaining healthy, live soil is noteworthy.

When building a new bed in your garden, add life to your soil with organic matter. Sprinkle two pounds of bone meal per 100 square feet, then add a 4-inch layer of organic matter such as compost, sphagnum peat moss or leaf humus. Till it in as deeply as the tiller will go, rake it smooth, and you are ready to plant your little ones. Then step back and watch them leap.

Planting a rain garden

Beautiful and Beneficial Rain Gardens

By Amy McDowell

Two raindrops are floating down the river, destined to become drinking water in the next city. One has been filtered clean by soaking through a rain garden. The other is carrying traces of animal waste, pesticide and fertilizer residue from turf, and petroleum products from pavement. Which one would you rather see pulled into the water treatment plant?

Rain gardens are beautiful and simple to install. They improve water quality and provide wildlife habitat.

A rain garden is a shallow bowl-shaped flowerbed planted with deep-rooted native flowers, grasses and sedges. When it rains, runoff from hard surfaces like the roof and driveway collects in the rain garden basin. The water then percolates down through the soil, and pollutants are filtered out.

Six steps to installing a rain garden

1- Choose a low spot at least 10 feet on a downward slope away from your home.

2- Test your soil’s drainage by digging a hole 16 inches deep and 8 inches wide near the center of your new garden. Pour 8 inches of water into the hole. If the water goes down at least one inch every hour, your soil is in good shape for a rain garden.

3- Lay out a garden hose to design the shape of your bed and remove the sod.

4- Loosen up the soil eight inches deep and amend it if needed. The best soil mix for a rain garden is 50-60 percent sand, 20-30 percent topsoil, and 20-30 percent compost. That 2:1:1 ratio makes the best spongy soil for root penetration and water absorption.

5- Smooth and level the soil and spread shredded mulch over the surface.

6- Install the plants, spacing them about a foot apart. This list of rain garden plants is a good place to start for a pleasing mix of colors and textures. At least one third of your plants should be grasses and sedges. 

Rain garden plant list

Blue flag iris                 Iris virginica

Bottlebrush grass         Hystrix patula

Bottlebrush sedge        Carex comosa

Broom sedge               Carex scoparia

Canada anemone         Anemone canadensis

Cardinal flower            Lobelia cardinalis

Great spike rush           Eleocharis palustris

Marsh blazing star        Liatris spicata

Marsh marigold            Caltha palustris

Monkey flower            Mimulus ringens

Nodding onion            Allium cernuum

Spiderwort                  Tradescantia ohioensis

Swamp milkweed        Asclepias incarnata

Sweet flag                   Acorus calamus

Turtlehead                  Cheylone glabra

Virgin’s bower            Clematis virginana

Wood gray sedge        Carex grisea

Buy plants in multiples so you can plant them in drifts. A list of Iowa nurseries who sell native plants is available at http://grandprairiefriends.org/nurseriesIA.html.

It's seed startin' time!

Start yer ‘maters!

By Amy McDowell

The green flag is out, garden fans. Seed starting season is upon us here in central Iowa. At the finish line we’re not greeted by the checkered flag, but the red ripe tomato. Is your adrenaline pumping? I hope so, because you are in for another gorgeous garden season and one fantastic ride.

Gather the tools you’ll need and let’s get growing. Any clean container with drainage holes in the bottom will work. Choose a quality seed starting mix and moisten it with water until it’s spongy. Fill the containers with the mix and tap it down lightly. Now sow the seeds and sprinkle a little more seed starting mix over the top. Don’t forget to label your pots.

Cover the pots with clear plastic to keep the soil moist until the seeds germinate. After they germinate, the covers can be removed for good, but you’ll have to keep a closer eye on the soil to make sure it doesn’t get too dry.

Most seeds will germinate better if you can provide bottom heat. If you can, set your pots on the top of your warm refrigerator or some other warm spot.

As soon as the seeds sprout, move the pots to a bright window or under grow lights. Bright light is important at this stage so the plants don’t get too tall and spindly. The window location may get cooler at night, so you might need to move the plants out of the window at night and back into the bright light during the day. If you use grow lights, keep the lights suspended just above the growing plants, and use a timer so the lights are on for at least 12 hours a day.

New seedlings are tender; don’t let them get too dry or keep them too wet, because they can collapse in either extreme.

One last note and then you’re off and racing. If you have the space in your garden, think about growing a little extra for the Plant A Row for the Hungry program. Because of the recession, the demand for hunger assistance has skyrocketed in recent years, and sometimes food pantries are forced to turn people away because they don’t have enough resources to assist everyone.

The DMARC Food Pantry will take garden produce, but you’ve got to drop it off weekdays between 8 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. at 3816 36^th Street in Des Moines. Maybe you can even organize a Plant A Row group in your neighborhood or church. Whatever you do, gear up and get ready for a great season.

Direct-sow annual flowers in your garden

Flowers from Seed

By Amy McDowell

I turned my nose up at zinnias for years. I thought they looked gaudy—bright pink, orange, and red pompoms and coarse foliage dusty with mildew. One year, however, Grandpa McDowell sprinkled a package of zinnia seeds into his garden. A magnificent swarm of butterflies hovered over his garden when we visited on the Fourth of July, and that vision has forever changed my opinion of zinnias.

Raid the seed rack at your local garden center, and you can broaden the spectrum of delight in your garden. There are all kinds of annuals that are not offered in plant packs, but are simple to grow from seed. Annual flowers will not only give your perennial garden continuous color, but they can give it a full, gushing-with-blooms cottage garden look.

Flax, cosmos, and nigella (Love in a Mist) are delicate looking, and you can sprinkle the seed around your perennials to create drifts of color from one end of the bed to the other. Flax creates a wispy hint of color. Blue is the most common, but it also comes in bold yellow and pink. Cosmos blooms are a little more defined in the garden; they come in pink, red, white, and newer yellow and orange varieties. Nigella has feathery foliage and pastel blooms in blue and pink.

Datura and cleome are a couple of giant annual flowers that you can count on reseeding in your garden year after year. Datura have huge five to eight-inch trumpet blooms in white, lavender, and yellow. The standard white ones are sweet smelling, kind of like Fruit Loops. Cleome, sometimes called spider flower, comes in pink, lavender, and white.

Four O’Clocks open their blooms in the middle of the afternoon, hence their name. They come in terrific pink and yellow colors, and form a rounded, knee-high mound. They will also reseed and create large drifts in your garden if you’ll let them.

If you have a hot spot that just bakes in the sun, try poking a few nasturtium seeds into the ground. The first time I grew nasturtium, I planted them in a two-foot square patch between the garage, the driveway, and a sidewalk. It was a southern exposure that was far from the garden hose, so they got little care, but they thrived.

All of these annual flowers can be sown directly into the garden in early May. Annual flowers pollinated by bees, birds, and butterflies in the garden will often lose their boldest colors as they reseed over the years. When the colors start to look watered down, some gardeners hoe the seedlings under in the spring and plant new seed. It’s always delightful to try something new in the garden, and seeds are an inexpensive and fun way to experiment.

An African Violet Affair

African Violets

By Amy McDowell

After a couple of weeks of frantic lunacy-driven Ebay bidding, packages of African Violet leaves began arriving on my doorstep. Each leaf was packaged carefully in a plastic bag with a label bearing its name. I lined them up, each in an empty plastic 6-ounce Sunny D bottle with the violet’s name taped on the side. I filled the bottles with water and when I was finished, four dozen bottles sat under fluorescent shop lights.

In a few weeks, tiny new plants grew on each leaf and delicate white roots filled the makeshift vases. In one marathon potting session, I settled each little plant into a 4-inch plastic pot filled with lightweight, soilless potting mix. I peeled the labels from the plastic bottles and stuck them to the pots. As I struggled to find space for all of them, at last I recognized my folly.

African Violets are ideal houseplants. Thousands of varieties offer plant lovers a smorgasbord of colors, styles and sizes. They are easy to care for, thriving and blooming in ordinary household conditions. Their delicate nodding blooms arise from the fuzzy foliage before unfurling in rich purple or red or pastels of every hue.

Grow African Violets in bright light from a north- or east-facing window or under fluorescent lights. Water from the bottom by filling the saucer with water, letting the soil soak it up, and dumping out any leftover after a half an hour. Fertilize as often as you want by adding one-quarter teaspoon of 20-20-20 or 15-30-15 to a gallon of water. Mine bloom well even with infrequent fertilization.

Their fuzzy leaves protect African Violets from most insects, but foliar nematodes are a killer. The center of the plant starts to look like a tiny head of cauliflower as the newest leaves are shrunken, contorted and white. Nothing can be done to save them; throw the plant and the pot away. Be careful not to aid the spread of the nematodes by letting the plants touch. Thoroughly wash your hands and any tools, including the watering can, that have come in contact with an infected plant.